Westward Approaches

The Muscle Ridge Channel, the preferred approach to western Penobscot Bay for most boaters, runs northeast from Tenants Harbor all the way up to Owls Head. On its way up to the entrance of the bay, the Muscle Ridge weaves through rugged islands, small harbors, and white sandy beaches, including Lucia Beach, one of the most beautiful in the mid-coast. About halfway up the channel, the Village of Spruce Head and neighboring Spruce Head Island sit like diamonds in the rough, their blue collar charms missed by many a travelling tourist. Spruce Head sits on the eastern edge of the St. George Peninsula, an area that one could call quiet when compared to the western side of the Peninsula, where tourists and summer folk flock to the charming villages of Tenants Harbor and Port Clyde, where the art galleries cater to the summer folk and the Monhegan boat departs three times a day. In the town of St George, halfway up the peninsula, you can take a right down route 73. A few miles onto the bumpy old byway, the village of Spruce Head appears. The Famous Keag store(pronounced gig), sits like an anchor in the middle of town, next to an art gallery and a small bridge that looks out onto a long winding inlet. There is not a lot of fuss here, just people going about their daily lives. Summer houses are scattered about, but mostly hidden from view. A few lobster boats occupy the small harbor, and a classic white church stands erect in the center of town, creating another enduring symbol of coastal New England. While the village appears sleepy, Spruce Head Island appears as busy as can be. Everywhere you look there is a lobster boat on the Island, and if they are not in the water, they are in the yard of Spruce Head Marine, where dozens of old boats have come to find what surely seems to be their final resting place. I came across the Maine Coast Seafood Company, where my request to take photographs was granted with a slight nod of the head. As I walked to the end of the wharf, I climbed onto a large mass of rock that was protruding out from the shore towards the water. On top of the rock was a sweeping view of Muscle Ridge Channel and the faint traces of Vinalhaven and eastern Penobscot Bay in the distance. But my eye was drawn to the far right where a run down and decaying building sat, looking like it was going to collapse upon itself at any moment. Amid the rubble and wood strewn structure lay all kinds of lobster paraphernalia. Buoys, traps and rope lay scattered across the ground, next to an old wooden door that had obviously seen better days. I focused my lens on the structure, and was about to capture it, when I noticed a pristine American flag waving in the background. I refocused and was able to catch the flag flying over the structure. There was just something so pure about that flag flying over that run down structure. It screamed independence to me and I believe it made a for a quite compelling photograph. The rest of the island is a hodgepodge of old houses and even older lobster shacks and rotting wharves. The pine trees cover the place, seemingly marching together in a green parade towards the sea. The beauty of this area comes with the silence that surrounds it. All that could be heard on a cold and windy Saturday afternoon were the cries of Seagulls, the splash of the ocean and the click of my faithful Nikon. Later on I returned home, the sting of the wind retreating from my face. I ate dinner and walked down my street to the public beach, where I watched a vivid sunset unfold over North Haven and Penobscot Bay. The water turned pink, the sky turned red, and my travels for this day had come to an end. Next time you find yourself on route 73, take a detour to Spruce Head Island and gaze out to the Muscle Ridge Channel. Take it from me, you won't be disappointed with this particular approach!