Wednesday, September 14, 2011

Smoky Sou'wester

A thick blanket of fog settled over Penobscot Bay yesterday morning, covering the streets of Camden in a ghostly haze. The visibility was close to zero, and the air was heavy, almost as if the outside world was nowhere to be found. As the afternoon progressed, the fog burned off and a lovely southwest breeze kicked up off the ocean, warming the air and providing for yet another spectacular September day. Down in Port Clyde, the Georges Islands were hazy in the distance. The sun sparkled on the harbor, and the famous pointed firs of the St. George Peninsula swayed back and forth from Hupper Island, down to Marshall Point. In the General Store, a few lobstermen chatted in front of the register. "She was choppy out there today," one of them commented. "But we got a good smoky Sou'wester kicking up today." The wind on the Maine coast tends to come from the southwest, and when it pushes off the morning fog, the horizon becomes "smoky," as the lobstermen put it. The outer islands look dreamlike when this blend of wind and fog swirls around them, and the ocean turns a deep shade of blue. The air is balmy, yet cool at the same time, as the retreating fog gives way to the approaching southwest winds. As the evening hour arrived, I walked down my road to the beach, my faithful Nikon at the ready. The path to the water was overgrown with wild flowers, sea grass and lichen. The sun appeared misty as it filtered down through the pine trees. The beach was quiet, and the tide was dead low. The breeze off the bay was heavenly, and the seagulls, terns and eiders of the beach soared in it's windy wake. I dug my feet in the cool sand and let the water wash over my feet. I took a deep breath and reveled in my surroundings. Thank god I live here, I thought, because if you ever happen to visit Maine in September, it could be dangerous. You may never leave!
















































































































































Sunday, September 11, 2011

Shimmering September

I am prone to hyperbole, but I have to admit, When the month of September arrives on the Maine coast, a certain poignant smell, a mixture of spruce firs, ocean and wild flowers, pervades the landscape and literally takes my breath away. It is the smell of Fall, for now is the time to bundle up to watch a sunset, and fire up the wood stove on a cold clear night. Now is the the time to walk through an early morning frost, and feel the cold winds of change dance upon your face. September is that special month when the tourists leave, and the streets regain their customary hush. The Penobscot Bay shimmers in the afternoon sun, as sleek sailboats and swift yachts run up and down her beautiful expanse of pine clad islands, rolling mountains and rocky shores. Stores in town are quiet now, the bustle of July lost in the arrival of the ninth month. Children get up to go to school, while parents stand hand in hand with them, waiting for the bus to arrive. The mood is festive, yet remains laced with some measure of nostalgia, for the warm days of summer are here no more. The temperatures dip into the 30's at night, and rise to the 60's during the day. The air is lazy, and the swaying sea grass of the town beach waves gracefully for only a few to see. Everyone seems gone now. Everything seems different. Can it really be September already? It must be, and time does tend to fly while having fun. I dreamt of skiing the other night, and awoke to a freezing cold bedroom. I thought for a few minutes about Winter and the approaching snow, then nodded off back to sleep. Who am I but a small figure, enveloped in a world of brilliant nature, where nightly sunsets are must see t.v and the early morning light shines in that special way that only fall can bring.




























































































































Monday, September 5, 2011

Sleepy Sunday

The air was heavy yesterday on Deer Isle, where a stormy morning gave way to a sleepy late afternoon. Puffy clouds raced across the sky, and the land smelled of fall and it's fast approaching delights. Leaves were scattered all around me, the grass swayed back and forth in the sea breeze, and the hordes of weathered lobster boats sat quietly in Stonington harbor. It felt like fall, and it felt good! The summer tourists still remained, but the numbers were rapidly dropping like flies. I found myself walking slowly down Main Street, my faithful Nikon at the ready, just watching the harbor, and the people strolling by. My thoughts turned to the beautiful but bittersweet season of Fall, which sat tantalizingly close on every Mainers door step. It is amazing how you can sense the subtle change in weather, when the month of September comes along. The air really does smell different, it even tastes different. The haze and humidity of July are gone, replaced by the cool nights and brisk mornings of September. There is a certain laziness in the air, a kid of indifference that makes me sleepy, almost as if I am living in a dream. The majestic spruce firs of this spectacular little island stand tall against the rocky shores of it's craggy coastline. Winding streams empty into small inlets, where wooden sailboats rest at their respective moorings. Giant apple trees tower over old white farmhouses, where neighboring barns look as if they should have fallen down 50 years ago. Being on Deer Isle, at this time of year, with the sleepy air surrounding me, had me feeling more relaxed than I can remember. I walked down a back road in Oceanville, where a giant old quarry sat, touched only by the harsh hands of time. Across the quarry, Webb Cove sparkled in the afternoon sun, while the unmistakable spine like shape of Isle a Haut rose high in the distance. I sat down on a big slab of rock, my feet dangling below. I lay my head down and stretched my body out on the warm surface of the rock. The wind swept across my face every few minutes, reminding me that I was still awake, for I felt like drifting off at any moment. Come to Deer Isle soon, your soul with thank you!
































































































































































































































































































































































































































Thursday, September 1, 2011

Spruce Head Simplicity

As I may have mentioned before, summer on the Maine coast is a fleeting experience. Now that the month of August has come to an end, the experience of summer is no longer fleeting, it's more like long gone! All of a sudden, the nights are cooler, and the days are shorter. Low temperatures dip down into the 40's and highs barely reach into the 70's. The grass is wet in the early morning, dew clings to my car windows, and that unmistakable sweet smell of fall is in the air. Leaves are just starting to turn different colors, while the ground is becoming saturated with the ones that can't seem to hold on to their respective branches any longer. Down on Spruce Head Island, the sun was out and the day was beautiful. Lobstermen prowled the docks of this small fishing island, checking on their boats and counting their day's haul. A tattered American flag whipped in the afternoon wind at McLoon's lobster pound. Standing tall over Muscle Ridge Channel, the flag looked so beautiful, just moving to the rhythm of the breeze. There was something so simple about it. With a small fleet of white lobsterboats behind it, and a weathered old lobster pound beside it, the flag seemed to represent more that just patriotic pride, it represented summer and it represented this beautiful coast that I call home.